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Luisa Maria may be located in Germany, but her heart (or
at least, her stomach) is firmly rooted in Italy. Like any good Italian, food is somewhat of an obsession
for her, although she would never admit it... that would make it sound like
loving food is crazy! That's certainly not the case here. Consider Luisa Maria your personal guide to that next
great meal abroad. First stop on your itinerary: Bologna, Italy.
It’s a good sign when you Google gramigna alla salsiccia and there are only two results that aren’t in
Italian. Prior to visiting Bologna
last month, I had never even heard of gramigna pasta, let alone tried this remarkable dish that is
rarely served outside of Italy.
Another search found gramigna con salsiccia on the menu of two New York restaurants (Convivio in
Midtown and Bianca in NoHo), but both use either broccoli rabe or red pepper in
their versions – neither of which sound like bad additions, but they weren’t in
the recipe during my trip. And
let’s be honest, I can’t image them being better than the version served in
Bologna. After all, this city is
considered by most to be the culinary capital of the world… and this dish was
one of the best I’ve ever tasted.
Gramigna is a short,
thin tubular pasta that is curled at the edges. Like most Italian pastas, it translates to something that
isn’t so much appetizing as it is true to the pasta’s shape: grass. Salsiccia is Italian for sausage, and before you
sausage-haters out there protest, I’m not talking about those thick cuts of sausage
that overwhelm most Italian dishes you see in the States. With gramigna alla salsiccia, the sausage is delicately crumbled, providing the
flavor of the meat without the usual, dominating commodity of it. It works well, bringing out the pasta
along with the white wine and fresh cream that it’s tossed in. Add some oil and onions, season with
salt and pepper, and top it off with grated parmesan cheese and you’ve got your
dish. The taste is robust, savory
and smooth. After my first bite, I
was in disbelief of how great it was and each subsequent bite was just as good
as the first, though I did eventually come to believe that, yes, what I was
eating was really that good.
It helped that the sausage was probably maxed out for the
fat content. This is a crucial
addition that makes it somewhat difficult to replicate the dish on your own in
the United States, given the lean sausage sold at most American grocery
stores. But unlike many
sausage-and-cream pasta dishes in the US, it’s not a dish that’s maxed out on
cream. The cream seems subtle and
the pasta itself isn’t drenched in the sauce, which is the Italian (read: best)
way to do it. The pasta wears the
sauce, never vice versa.
Of course, this is just one of many specialties of
Emilia-Romagna (the region of Italy that abuts Tuscany, making Bologna a
perfect day trip if you’re staying in Florence). Other regional delicacies I recommend include Tortellini al
Brodo (or Tortellini in broth, a great soup to start off your meal);
Tagliatelle al ragu (long, flat ribbons of pasta dressed in a ragu, which is
Italian for “sauce” and in this case, means Bolognese sauce. Bolognese is made
of beef, pork, veal, onions, carrots, celery, cream, wine and tomatoes…
arguably the best sauces out there); Lasagna Bolognese (no explanation
necessary); and Mortadella (a thin, smoother version of American Bologna – and
now you know where the name comes from).
Buon appetito!
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